The exterior and colouring of the product should be inspiring, but when the product is in use, it should not make you overly aware of its presence, but rather be like a 'prompter'.
In search of a new soles.
It took us two years to develop the new sole, but thanks to you we have met a lot of great materials. Cutting, gluing, grinding, colouring and polishing the materials... The cumbersome ideas were gradually stripped away and simplified as the process was repeated. Lightweight and comfortable, the Vibram Gumlite is characterised by a very fine foam pattern design, similar to a crepe sole. The special foam rubber, produced exclusively at the Vibram factory in Italy, is probably the best solution after experimenting with many rubber materials. The uniformly laid air bubbles provide an exquisite grip when walking and driving.
Handicraft and aesthetics
Designing a driving sole with a tailored dress heel was truly a 'binary' challenge. The conventional dress heel shape does not provide stable heel contact when driving, so part of the heel has been cut into a tapered cut. The angle itself is kept to a negligible figure of about 10 degrees, but we think the design is perfect for everyday driving.
The welt line (the part of the push-fuchi that protrudes from the sole), which is a unique design feature of the dress sole, was designed so that when viewed from above, the clearance with the toe shape is flush with the toe. This is to prevent shoes from snagging on each other and unnecessary interference with pedalling.
In addition, the thick vertical leather welt has the appearance of a double sole when viewed from the side, giving it a delicate, hand-crafted feel that is not present in one-piece moulded rubber soles.The welt, and the leather wedged between the upper and the rubber sole, can be surface shaved and finished with patina dyes made by Avel of France, which creates emotional colours. This contrast between organic and inorganic materials is a unique detail of the laminated dress heel and a particular focus of the product's external aesthetic.
The MONOPOSTO is the first design to use this sole. The design is based on the motif of the traditional belgian shoe design, and is a product that is full of NEGRONI's unique attention to detail.
Colour and material usage
We believe that the emotion of superior colour is the essential luxury. The new dress heel tailored driving sole worked very well with suede and cross grain embossed leather. For the models in this collection, we thought about the colour combinations between materials that suddenly peek out between the feet, creating an emotional mood in our daily lives.
The heels and trimming tape are made of shiny "Wet track calf", arranged to provide a contrasting material not only to the shoes but also to the outfit. American blue and dark navy suede go especially well with moderately tapered denim jeans and tight wool slacks. Wear barefoot style with very shallow socks for a lightweight look.
And for this launch, a saddle brown horsehide leather lining has been applied. The colour of this lining has the generosity and luxury to accept different shades. We compared traditional horse saddle colours and had them dyed in an ideal saddle brown with a deep taste. The surface has been colour-stained with lacquer to prevent the colour from becoming too dark after long wear. The contrast with the silver foil also looks elegant.
Should the detailing be followed?
The distinctive A-shaped tassel is based on the design of road signs on lanes known as autobahns (unrestricted speed roads), which are scattered throughout Germany, Switzerland and Austria. Although the shape is quite a core concept, I like it because it has a gentle handwork feel, while following the details of the Bergevin shoe only slightly. The tassel work is an elaborate detail: a ribbon-like piece folded in two is threaded through a loop of leather tape, which is then meticulously machine-stitched. This fine handwork process gives the shoes a unique, high-quality mood.
An unexpected feature of the shoe is the topline (footwear opening), which is bridged with carbon fibre. This method was conceived during prototyping as a solution to a problem, but it is also a challenging design that only Negroni could have come up with. The technique was conceived to stop the topline from stretching, which is the biggest weakness of the slip-on. The thinness and rigidity of carbon fibre, which is normally used for design purposes, is utilised. This prevents the topline from stretching, which would cause the heel to come off easily once the footwear is on, although the tension at the footwear opening is strong. The last (wooden form) dimensions when the foot is inserted are designed to be slightly thicker. The design concept is "narrow at the entrance, wide inside".
The design of the shoe last uses the same sole gauge (bottom dimension) as the Grand Prix Hightop and Spearhead, so the sizing is an extension of these GRS lasts. The concept of the S-curve, which captures the entire foot three-dimensionally, is also followed in this shoe lasts, so you can feel a high-quality fit as if you were wearing a custom-made shoe. The toe part is thick enough to prevent the heel from slipping off, but the design is not so tight that you feel tightness in the toes. If you have any concerns about the instep or width of the shoe, we recommend that you consult with the customer about the size before making the shoe.
